Rome, from the Forum Romanum to Ostia AnticaAlthough The Wide World visited the Italian capital Rome many times, it always proves difficult to say goodbye to The Holy City. There aren't many cities in the world where there's so much to be seen in such a compact area. And with all the low cost airlines nowadays it's certainly not expensive to fly to Rome for a rewarding weekend trip.

The Colosseum and the Forum Romanum are of course well known as silent witnesses of the glorious past of the Roman Empire. but there's more, from vast complexes like the Thermae of Caracalla to a toppled column with a crumbling wall on a street corner. Admittance to the Forum Romanum is free nowadays, and it's always nice to stroll around between the ruins, although it can be very busy with tour groups. Mass tourism has taken its toll: the courtyard of the Vestal Virgins is fenced off and you really have to strech your neck to catch a glimpse of the famous statues. There's a beautiful view of the Forum from the Palazzo dei Conservatori, which belongs to the Capitoline Museums.
Capitoline MuseumsA visit to the Capitoline Museums is very rewarding, especially after
the recent renovations. It is the
oldest public museum in the world and enjoys great fame thanks to the
collection of antique statues, including many busts of Roman emperors, the
bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius on a horseback and the spinario, a
strikingly realistic statue of a boy who removes a thorn from his foot.
Ostia AnticaA day trip to the excavated city of Pompeii is just too far from Rome
(you really need a whole day in Pompeii), but Ostia Antica is a good
alternative if you want to see an antique Roman city, although the ruins
and paintings aren't quite so spectacular as Pompeii or Herculaneum. Ostia
can be reached by underground and city train within half an hour. It's
amazing how many buildings still stand upright; there are even some
apartment buildings of three or more floors.
Ostia was the port of the antique city of Rome, but nowadays
it is several kilometres inland. The city slowly lost its significance
when the harbour got silted up, and a malaria epidemic in the 4th century
marked the definitive end of the city. In Ostia Antica it's usually very
quiet, contrary to Pompeii where hordes of tourists make it difficult to
enter the sights. The train to Ostia Antica contiues to the coast, but the
seaside resort of Ostia is very ugly and the beach isn't much better.
Vatican MuseumsA visit to the Vatican Museums is a unique experience, not only
because of all the assembled art treasures, but also because of the
sheer number of visitors that is driven through the rooms every day.
The queue of tourists along the Vatican walls can be depressingly
long. There are a few remedies: visit Rome in the low season or plan
your visit at the end of the morning. Another tactic is to queue as
early as possible and to head directly for the Sistine Chapel once
you are in the museum, a 20-30 minute walk. There's a good chance
you can admire the unique Michelangelo frescos in relative
stillness. It will be an entirely different experience, compared to
being in the chapel with literally hundreds of other visitors, many
of them whispering, talking aloud or taking pictures, a pandemonium
regularly interrupted by attendants yelling 'Silenzio!' and 'No pictures!'.
If you can't stand the buzz and the crowds anymore, head for the
Etruscan Museum, which is very rewarding and usually very quiet.
St-PieterskerkVanaf de koepel van de St.-Pieterskerk heb je een uniek uitzicht
over Rome en het St.-Pietersplein met daarachter de Via della
Conciliazione, de boulevard die na het verdrag van Lateranen dat
Mussolini in 1929 met paus Pius XI sloot, werd aangelegd om Rome op
passende wijze met het Vaticaan te verbinden.
Tip: Zeer de moeite waard is een bezoek aan de opgravingen
onder de St.-Pieterskerk, waar het graf van Petrus zou liggen.
Tickets zijn slechts beperkt verkrijgbaar en moeten lang tevoren
aangevraagd worden bij het
excavations office.

It's very easy to escape the busy city and visit the surrounding countryside. Just take the train from Termini station to Frascati, a village surrounded by vineyards in the Colli Albani. The journey takes only half an hour. From Frascati you can walk in an our or so to Tuscolo, Roman excavations high on a hill where Cicero once had a villa. There are beautiful views over the surrounding hills. When you're back in Frascati, you can enjoy the refreshing white Frascati, the wine that is consumed in Rome since ancient times. Order a carafe right from the barrel with a plate of antipasti, like peperoni in olive oil, dry sausage or artichoke hearts in one of the many wine cellars before heading back to Rome.
Centrale MontemartiniA must for lovers of antique sculpture and industrial archaeology is the Centrale Montemartini, a building in a rather uninteresting suburb of Rome. Once it was the first electricity plant of Rome (1912), which was closed in 1963. Since 1997 a number of statues from the collection of the Capitoline Museums are on display here. The antique sculptures harmonize in a strange way in the big museum hall, where two giant diesel engines and a steam turbine are the showpieces. The other rooms present an overview of the development of the city of Rome through the ages. Combination tickets with the Capitoline Museums are available.
Villa Hadriana, Tivoli
Subiaco
Zo'n 30 km ten oosten van Tivoli ligt het stadje Subiaco, omringd door flinke
bergen waar 's winters geskied wordt. Even buiten Subiaco ligt tegen een
helling het klooster
van St.-Benedictus, waar de grondlegger van het kloosterleven als jongeman
drie jaar lang heeft verbleven in de Sacro Speco, de heilige spelonk. In het kloostercomplex zijn fraaie schilderingen bewaard gebleven. De omgeving van
het klooster leent zich voor mooie wandelingen, ver weg van de drukte van
Rome.
Hotels in Rome
aren't cheap and rooms usually are small. You should book a hotel well
ahead, because accommodation fills up quickly throughout the year, and
a hunt for a room with all your luggage in the city centre is no fun
at all.
The choice of restaurants in Rome is bewildering, from simple
pizzeria's to luxurious establishments. Outdoor cafes are very expensive,
especially in touristy areas, but drinking an espresso or cappuccino
standing at the bar, like the Romans do, is rather cheap. A piece of pizza
from the baking tray (pizza al taglio) makes an excellent lunch, or
you can order a filled sandwich in any grocery (alimentari).
It's difficult to find a supermarket or grocery in the city centre; one of
the few is in the basement of Stazione Termini.
In many restaurants you
can order a carafe of cashed whine (vino sfuzo), usually white
whine from the Alban Hills, which is considerably cheaper than a bottle
and also of less quality, but thirst-quenching anyway. Italians strongly
believe a meal can't be enjoyed without water (acqua
minerale), carbonated (gassata) or still (naturale).
Pizza is usually accompanied by draught beer and oddly also increasingly
by big bottles of Coca Cola.
The Rough Guide to Rome is a good travel guide, with lots of tips for accommodation, restaurants and bars.


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